We all know that over time our SAKs suffer from wear and tear, and become harder to open and close.
Here's a little tip from Victorinox on how to remedy that problem and keep your SAK working at optimum condition. It's recommended that you follow this precess every 6-12 months depending on how often you use your knife.
Note: I would say any standard 3-in-1 "sewing machine" type, or small parts oil would work for this.
Correct use of the can opener function
Screw Driver blade function
Basic Swiss Army Knife functions
Don't open multiple blades at once
As you can see in the below picture, the spring is actually a solid piece of stainless steel which can be permanently bent by having more than one blade open at a time due to the way the blades apply pressure and bend the spring in various points even though Victorinox themselves dispute this we have heard many stories of people's knives not functioning properly after opening too many blades at once.
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The best oil to use it 3-in-1 or mineral oil (pharmacies usually have it). THis is a pretty good sharpener:
wal mart and sporting goods store usually have them for under $5. Then occasionally there will be so much damage to the edge that the V-sharpener wont do the trick, and you need a stone for the course work before using the V-sharpener. Stones also are around $5. It takes a lot of practice though
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Yeah the 3-in-1 oil is the sewing machine oil (at least it is in these parts).
I've updated that note in the post.
My father always had a rather large sharpening stone hanging at the back door which he used regularly for his knives.
I've actually found that a butchers sharpening steel works really well for keeping the edge on SAK blades - (I've got a very old one which is actually made from steel, not aluminum or what ever they use these days) - works really well, although they do take a little practice.
I like those electric ones to that sit your knife blade at the right angle with the spinning stone in them. They're fun to use
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I finally bought a bottle of the 3-in-1 oil with the cap that allows you to just squeeze a drop or two out- it's PERFECT! I wish I had found it sooner. For sharpening SAK's, if you've just cut a lot of semi-hard material, those V-sharpeners will restore the edge, but if you have nicks or chips out of the blade you have to completely hone them out. I have a double sided stone I've used for ages that has a coarse and then a fine side. I also recently bought a wet stone that I use as a final stone, then I run it through the V sharpener for the final fine edge. The trick, I've found with SAK's, is to lay the blade almost flat on the stone. Obviously you don't want to lay it ALL the way down or you will horribly scar the sides of the stone. I just say that because I used to stand the blade up too high as I was sharpening and never could get a sharp edge.
There are also kits like the Lansky Sharpmaker that totally take the guesswork out and provide a more quantitative and consistent edge, but it's a lot more expensive than three stones and a Smith's V.
I also use Q-Tips to get the crap out of the knife when lint and similar matter accumulates inside. I open all the blades and get that junk out. THen if you want to do fine picking, the toothpick is the only thing I've had 100% success with.
You have to be careful with some blades on SAK's such as the main blade of the One Hand Trekker, the chisel, the scissors, Minichamp hook/picker, and the reamer- as you sharpen those, it's imperative to only sharpen the one side as they are a "chisel" edge, meaning only one side is sharpened to create the edge. If you try to sharpen it with a "V" edge, especially with the scissors, you will ruin them. Unfortunately, that is experience speaking.
The saw, believe it or not, can actually be sharpened. It is accomplished by using a really fine stone, like a wetstone. You lay the side of the saw down against the stone flat, completely flat, and sharpen. Do the other side as well obviously, but that is how it is done.
If you have never had a SAK, beware the reamer chip! If you close the awl/reamer and aren't careful, then you can close it on the keyring! This puts a small chip in the end of the reamer that can only be sharpened away by removing some serious metal. An easy fix is to remove the keyring, but I can never bring myself to do this as MacGyver always had it (well except in Tough Boyz)- and I was always afraid I would need to lower my SAK by a string and need to tie the string through the ring! (Think opening Gambit of Trumbo's World, or Cleo Rocks- although, in Cleo rocks it was a knife that does not come with a keyring- alright, that's it, I'm taking it off right now!)
"It's a real ugly thing to see in a dog. It's even worse in a human being." --The Golden Triangle
"I'd like a 16-inch pizza, run it through the garden, hold the chovies." -- The Eraser
The trick, I've found with SAK's, is to lay the blade almost flat on the stone. Obviously you don't want to lay it ALL the way down or you will horribly scar the sides of the stone. I just say that because I used to stand the blade up too high as I was sharpening and never could get a sharp edge.
Hmmm, that's interesting because "experts" always say that with stainless steel you sharpen at more of and upright angle than normal steel and if you look at a new SAKs blade it does have quite an edge to it.
I've actually found a standard butchers steel is quite good for sharpening a SAK and keeping it sharp
nice, thanks for this. i have a super champ, its always been my prized possesion in my youth, so big with every tool imaginable, but i really havnt used it since scouting days....some of the blades wont even open. anybody have experience with sak's that wont even open? just oil it and hope it opens eventually?
leave it to soak in warm soapy water for a while. I've found the best is to throw it into the sink when you start washing the evening dishes, leave it in until you've finished washing and drying everything then try opening the blades while it's still in the water.
Another option might be a good dose of WD40 or similar product and leave it to soak in over night.
thanks, im gonna put some wd40 on it right now...it was just wrong of me to abuse it so that it got to this point.
a little off topic but anybody know a good place to buy replacement tools for removable sak items? i know i have lost the little needle/pin in the super champ, would like to replace it.
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QUOTE
a little off topic but anybody know a good place to buy replacement tools for removable sak items? i know i have lost the little needle/pin in the super champ, would like to replace it.
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Yeah i cleaned up a 1980s fishermen with warn water then used some oil then sharpened it up and now it works like new. I don't use it though cuz its the last thing i have of my grandmother. She bought it in Switzerland. but i owned a smith pocket pal sharpener and it ruined the grind of my swiss champion plus. now im learning how to use a stone. My sog twitch 2 has taken the role of my primary knife but i still carry a recruit, cadet, or tinker sak aswell.1
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I'm positive I saw a thread that mentioned the types of knives Mac used, but I haven't been able to find it - which knifes does he use, and which was the most popular? I'm thinking about getting one but don't want to get one unless it's really good.
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One tip for sharpening all knives, chisels, plane blades ~ NEVER use an electric grinder on them, as it changes the temper of the steel if it gets too hot. It then becomes more brittle, and won't hold an edge for anywhere near as long - several of the better brands state in their warranties that letting your knife anywhere near a grinder can void the warranty..
By definition, your sharpening stone(s) are for putting the initial edge on your blade; a leather strop removes any burrs and cleans the edge up; and the "steel" and the diamond sharpeners are then used for maintaing that edge...
Some sharpening stones use water - not oil - while there are others that can be used dry, same as with your steels, and diamond or ceramic pocket sharpeners..
Over time, many people here will likely end up with all of these in their sharpening "kits".
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QUOTE (M.C. Wolfcat @ 5 February 2013 - 05:55 AM)
Can any1 tell what is the proper way to wash a SAK?
Just use the soapy water you wash your dishes in. Give it a good long soak and wash in the water and then rinse it off under the tap (faucet) and dry it off.
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QUOTE (KiwiTek @ 5 February 2013 - 07:58 AM)
QUOTE (M.C. Wolfcat @ 5 February 2013 - 05:55 AM)
Can any1 tell what is the proper way to wash a SAK?
Just use the soapy water you wash your dishes in. Give it a good long soak and wash in the water and then rinse it off under the tap (faucet) and dry it off.