Maintaining your SAK

We all know that over time our SAKs suffer from wear and tear, and become harder to open and close.

Here's a little tip from Victorinox on how to remedy that problem and keep your SAK working at optimum condition.
It's recommended that you follow this precess every 6-12 months depending on how often you use your knife.


Note: I would say any standard 3-in-1 "sewing machine" type, or small parts oil would work for this.


Correct use of the can opener function



Screw Driver blade function



Basic Swiss Army Knife functions

Ohh! *grabs SAK* Cool thanks Rock.

yes thank you I may need this info in the future.

The best oil to use it 3-in-1 or mineral oil (pharmacies usually have it). THis is a pretty good sharpener:



wal mart and sporting goods store usually have them for under $5. Then occasionally there will be so much damage to the edge that the V-sharpener wont do the trick, and you need a stone for the course work before using the V-sharpener. Stones also are around $5. It takes a lot of practice though

Yeah the 3-in-1 oil is the sewing machine oil (at least it is in these parts).

I've updated that note in the post.

My father always had a rather large sharpening stone hanging at the back door which he used regularly for his knives.

I've actually found that a butchers sharpening steel works really well for keeping the edge on SAK blades - (I've got a very old one which is actually made from steel, not aluminum or what ever they use these days) - works really well, although they do take a little practice.

I like those electric ones to that sit your knife blade at the right angle with the spinning stone in them. They're fun to use

I'm so jeaous, I just have my rocks

sweet sharper.

This post has been edited by MacNymph on 3 June 2009 - 09:50 AM

I have got a too. It was a Christmas gift, for my sisters. I love it. I carrying everywhere.

I finally bought a bottle of the 3-in-1 oil with the cap that allows you to just squeeze a drop or two out- it's PERFECT! I wish I had found it sooner.
For sharpening SAK's, if you've just cut a lot of semi-hard material, those V-sharpeners will restore the edge, but if you have nicks or chips out of the blade you have to completely hone them out. I have a double sided stone I've used for ages that has a coarse and then a fine side. I also recently bought a wet stone that I use as a final stone, then I run it through the V sharpener for the final fine edge. The trick, I've found with SAK's, is to lay the blade almost flat on the stone. Obviously you don't want to lay it ALL the way down or you will horribly scar the sides of the stone. I just say that because I used to stand the blade up too high as I was sharpening and never could get a sharp edge.

There are also kits like the Lansky Sharpmaker that totally take the guesswork out and provide a more quantitative and consistent edge, but it's a lot more expensive than three stones and a Smith's V.

I also use Q-Tips to get the crap out of the knife when lint and similar matter accumulates inside. I open all the blades and get that junk out. THen if you want to do fine picking, the toothpick is the only thing I've had 100% success with.

You have to be careful with some blades on SAK's such as the main blade of the One Hand Trekker, the chisel, the scissors, Minichamp hook/picker, and the reamer- as you sharpen those, it's imperative to only sharpen the one side as they are a "chisel" edge, meaning only one side is sharpened to create the edge. If you try to sharpen it with a "V" edge, especially with the scissors, you will ruin them. Unfortunately, that is experience speaking.

The saw, believe it or not, can actually be sharpened. It is accomplished by using a really fine stone, like a wetstone. You lay the side of the saw down against the stone flat, completely flat, and sharpen. Do the other side as well obviously, but that is how it is done.

If you have never had a SAK, beware the reamer chip! If you close the awl/reamer and aren't careful, then you can close it on the keyring! This puts a small chip in the end of the reamer that can only be sharpened away by removing some serious metal. An easy fix is to remove the keyring, but I can never bring myself to do this as MacGyver always had it (well except in Tough Boyz)- and I was always afraid I would need to lower my SAK by a string and need to tie the string through the ring! (Think opening Gambit of Trumbo's World, or Cleo Rocks- although, in Cleo rocks it was a knife that does not come with a keyring- alright, that's it, I'm taking it off right now!)

Hmmm, that's interesting because "experts" always say that with stainless steel you sharpen at more of and upright angle than normal steel and if you look at a new SAKs blade it does have quite an edge to it.

I've actually found a standard butchers steel is quite good for sharpening a SAK and keeping it sharp